A European adventure for the 6th Duke's sisters

As you peruse the internet deciding where to spend your summer holidays, probably choosing a destination only two hours away by plane, consider how different European travel was for people in the 1800s.

Within the Devonshire Collection Archives, a series of letters sent to the 6th Duke of Devonshire by his sisters, Georgiana and Harriet, whilst they were touring Belgium and France in 1814, outline some of the highs and lows of their holiday.

On the left: Portrait of Lady Georgiana, Countess of Carlisle by George Sanders, c.1815-1820

On the right: Portrait miniature of Lady Harriet, Countess Granville by George Sanders (after Thomas Barber), c.1815

A rocky start

Their trip did not get off to a good start when, hampered by a lack of breeze, their ship from Dover to Ostend was forced to head instead for Calais. On arrival in Calais, low water then prevented the boat from docking and the passengers had to wait for a smaller boat to take them to the shore.

Georgiana describes being helped to shore by French fishermen: 

“we did not much enjoy being carried upon men’s shoulders but she [Harriet] and George [Georgiana’s husband] took the line of laughing and I of being faint”.

This first part of their trip took seven hours in total (today travelling from Dover to Calais would take between 1-2 hours either on the Eurostar or ferry).

Onward journeys meant waiting for carriages and staying at inns and hotels in various places along their route. Harriet recalls that one part of their journey was only 25 miles, but it was to take “6 hours work with 6 horses”.

Not all journeys ran smoothly for the Duke’s sisters and, when leaving Lille for Belgium, Georgiana recounts an accident in which one of their horses stumbled:

“we were completely and rapidly overturned into this ditch. I believe I was thrown on the bank, I soon scrambled from under the carriage but I had a terrible moment of suspense and agitation, for I did not see Lord M or George for some time. At last however I was repaid by finding them both well and we were none of us the least materially hurt, only bruised and stung with nettles”.

In his reply to that revelation the 6th Duke writes: “I have got your outlandish letters […] It was so entertaining, after the agitation caused by your overturn had subsided, how you will enjoy a little quiet and cleanliness at Spa and looking back on your adventures”.

A Derbyshire likeness

Spa, Belgium, was to be the final destination of their trip and the letters describe their surroundings and activities. Georgiana describes the approach to Spa as a beautiful little valley between rocks and woods "like a little Matlock", a picturesque Derbyshire town close to the 6th Duke’s residence at Chatsworth.

She also discusses their mother [Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire] and their grandmother being well known at Spa and notes that their grandmother had stayed at the same house in Spa on 18 different occasions. 

Holiday entertainments revolved around riding, sightseeing, promenading in the evening, and visiting the opera or ballet. Dancing at the ball in Spa twice a week was also another evening pastime where they danced “des Angloise, Quadrilles and Waltz”.

Photograph of Matlock titled Switzerland view, c.1890

A long way home

Their journey home started with a 6 day journey to Paris, where they rested for a few days. From Paris, Georgiana writes to her brother, telling him that he would “be enchanted with the beauty of the fine buildings” and she is keen to tell him of their visit to Versailles:

“Versailles is more magnificent but a 1000 times less beautiful than Chatsworth but there is something in the fountains, terraces and in the palace itself that reminds me.” 

In total, they were away for almost 8 weeks. It would be interesting to know how much luggage they took with them for such a length of time. One thing is certain, the modes of transport they used, though uncomfortable and slow, wouldn’t have left the carbon footprint that many of us are guilty of today.

On the left: Versailles - A View of the Palace and Terrace at Versailles by William Cowen, 1820s-1830s

On the right: View of Chatsworth by Siberechts, 1702-1708

By Angela Hams