Imaginary Conversations was an exhibition staged in the guest bedrooms at Chatsworth which celebrated the legacy of the late dowager Duchess Deborah Devonshire (1920-2014) and the Devonshire Collections, and how they inspired the Spring Summer 2024 collection of fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu.
The exhibition examined the house as a source of inspiration for Erdem, welcoming visitors into Duchess Deborah’s world and revealing how the history and archives at Chatsworth informed the creative process for the fashion collection.
Fascinated by her story and style, Erdem was given permission by Chatsworth House Trust and the Devonshire family, to dedicate his Spring Summer 2024 collection to Duchess Deborah.
As part of the research and development process for the collection, Erdem and his design team were given access to the extensive archives at Chatsworth. Archival fabrics from the collection, including historic curtains that once hung within Chatsworth, were reimagined into the collection along with the shapes, silhouettes and styles of the pieces Duchess Deborah wore.
The resulting exhibition, set within the Regency Guest Bedrooms at Chatsworth, offered a remarkable insight into both Duchess Deborah’s life and Erdem’s design process, showcasing the inspiration, craft and tools involved in translating the life and legacy of an individual into a fully realised fashion collection.
As the exhibition title suggests, the creative process is much like a conversation between designer and subject, resulting in a collection inspired by Duchess Deborah’s personality, values and passions, as much as her wardrobe.
Throughout the exhibition, the boundaries between the house, the duchess’s archive, and Erdem’s own material and collection, were frequently blurred, interspersed and interwoven. Imaginary Conversations revealed the biographical and anthropological power of fashion to tell ongoing stories that bring together people, time and place.
The exhibition experience
The exhibition began in the Queen of Scots’ Lobby. Cases were filled with material that once belonged to Duchess Deborah, including letters, objects and photographs of particular inspiration to Erdem.
A recording of the duchess’s voice, used in the Spring Summer 24 fashion show soundtrack for the launch at the British Museum, played in the background, and Lucian Freud’s portrait of the duchess, Woman in a White Shirt, brought her voice to life.
Entering the Queen of Scots’ Dressing Room, visitors were transported to a cutting room in Erdem’s atelier, seeing up close the tools and processes involved in designing a fashion collection. Fabric boards and maquettes were displayed alongide the toiles that were the starting point for the collection, together with garments from Duchess Deborah’s own couture collection.
In the Queen of Scots’ Bedroom, visitors were greeted by a large portrait of Duchess Deborah by John Ulbricht.
In the Alcove Bedroom, select pieces from Duchess Deborah’s legendary jewellery collection of insects were displayed in cases alongside pieces from Erdem’s collection, featuring bejewelled and embroidered textiles, as if the insects have taken flight from their cases and landed on the garments.
The Leicester Bedroom was a dramatic combination of large swathes of draped textiles from the Devonshire archive set amongst mannequins wearing pieces from Erdem’s collection featuring the archival curtain material. The interplay of textiles gave the impression that the garments were emerging from the very fabric of the building itself.
In the Wellington Dressing Room next door, attention was drawn to a single exhibit in a case by the Polonaise bed – Duchess Deborah’s legendary, cherished Elvis slippers.
The exhibition concluded in the Wellington Bedroom, where Duchess Deborah’s own inspirations and passions were displayed alongside looks from Erdem’s collection that honoured them.
A largescale projection played the Spring Summer 24 catwalk show, immersing visitors in the live experience and bringing the fashion show back to its spiritual home.
Imaginary Conversations was sponsored by Farfetch
About ERDEM
ERDEM is an independent house of bold fashion for women, based in London. Founded in 2005 by designer Erdem Moralioglu MBE, the brand has forged its own path within the industry. Poetic and rigorous, ageless and timeless, powerful and versatile, Erdem's world is an intriguing interplay of strength and beauty.
In eighteen years, Erdem has established an exuberant language of femininity that transcends fashion to inspire strength and confidence in the women for whom he designs. It is a passionate language that is evocative and eccentric in character, fluently spoken with a beauty that is intense and romantic. The house of ERDEM is cultured and erudite, underpinned by a belief in the power and skill of craftsmanship. Mind and hand work together to bring imagination to life with precision, artistry and the compelling dexterity of the handmade. Respect for traditional skills is combined with an excitement for innovation, in technique and application. Erdem is at heart a storyteller. Collections are formed around a narrative, championing heroic women at a particular place and a moment in time. The Erdem flagship store opened in 2015 on South Audley Street, Mayfair.
About FARFETCH
Farfetch is a leading global marketplace for the luxury fashion industry. Farfetch connects customers in over 190 countries and territories with items from more than 50 countries and over 1,400 of the world’s best brands, boutiques, and department stores, delivering a truly unique shopping experience and access to the most extensive selection of luxury on a global marketplace.
Image credits:
Images of Duchess Deborah from the Cecil Beaton Archive, © Condé Nast
Images of ERDEM Spring Summer 2024, © Jason Lloyd Evans
